How To Choose Different Motorcycle Chain Types

Chain this thing, in fact, is divided into 3 categories: ordinary chain (no oil seal), O-type oil seal chain, and X-type oil seal chain.

• Common chain (Standard/Unsealed): the cheapest option. Simply put, it is metal grinding metal, and there is no factory lubrication inside. In my opinion, this thing is only suitable for those old-fashioned cars or the kind of off-road motorcycles with very small displacement.
• O-type oil seal chain (O-Ring): This is the current industry standard. It uses an O-shaped rubber ring to lock the factory grease in the chain shaft pin. For the vast majority of street riders, it is durable and reliable.
• X-type oil seal chain (X-Ring): performance party of choice. Its sealing ring is X-shaped, when compressed is twisted rather than simply squeezed, which can greatly reduce friction, life is usually 1.5 to 2 times the O-chain.

However, before you pay, you need to find out which chain really suits your riding style. Many people think that the “competitive chain” must be good, but in my car repair experience, putting the racing chain on the commuter car is often a bad decision. Then look down and I’ll show you how to pick.

Which Motorcycle Chain Should You Buy?

1. The first choice for commuters and the motorcycle brigade: X-type oil seal chain (X-Ring)

• For whom? People who cycle to and from work every day, ride ADVs to distant places, and all those who put on chains and want to forget about it (most people do).
• Why choose it? Although big factories like DID and RK will always show you 1 charts and boast about “reducing friction coefficient”, for our ordinary riders, the real killer of X-type oil seals is the oil locking ability (Grease Retention). The cross-sectional design of the X-type creates four contact points (sealing barriers), while the ordinary O-type has only two.
• Accounting: An X-type chain is usually 20% to 30% more expensive than an O-type, but its life can grow by 50% or even 100.
• Old technician conclusion: If you are riding a street car of more than 600cc, this is the most cost-effective option based on the cost per kilometer of use.

2. Weekend run mountain party choice: O-type oil seal chain (O-Ring)

• For whom? Friends with limited budget, who are still riding old cars with large displacement, or who occasionally go to canyon to attack corners on weekends.
• Why choose it? This is a revolutionary technology in the 1970 s that can still be played today. The “O” seal ring works well, but because the rubber ring is tightly squeezed between the chain plates, the running resistance (Drag) is indeed greater.
• Old technician conclusion: Strong, reliable and cheap. But you have to clean it frequently and quickly. According to my observation, O-rings are more likely to dry and crack than X-rings under long-term use.

3. The choice of professional drivers and retro players: ordinary chain (Standard)

• For whom? Do old car repair (cars before 1970), 125cc small cross-country, or run straight-line acceleration race.
• Why choose it? The oil seal chain is relatively wide. On some old motorcycles, the oil seal chain will wear to the engine case. For a small off-road vehicle with only 15 horsepower, the resistance of the oil seal chain will eat up too much power.
• Old technician conclusion: Unless you have a special reason (such as insufficient clearance or straight racing), don’t buy this for a street car. Without internal lubrication, it wears out surprisingly fast if not maintained at all times.

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Wear Life & Friction Index

Chain type	Life index	Estimated mileage *	Friction level	Maintenance frequency
Normal Chain	100 (Benchmark)	~ 3,000 – 5,000 Miles	Zero (Low)	Extremely High (Every 200-300 Miles)
O-type oil seal	300-400	~ 12,000 – 15,000 miles	high (high resistance)	medium (per 500 miles)
X-type oil seal	500-600	~ 18,000 – 25,000 + miles	low	(every 600-800 miles)

* Note: The mileage depends to a large extent on the restlessness of your right hand and whether you are lazy or not.

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Understanding motorcycle Chain Sizes (Pitch)

The chain type is usually a 1 string of numbers (such as 520, 525, 530). This represents the size of the chain link.

• The first digit (5): represents that the pitch (the distance between the pins) is 5/8 inch.
• Last two digits (20, 25, 30): Represents the width of the roller.

Simple rules of physics: 530 chains are wider and heavier than 520.

Common collocation:

• 520: Lightweight imitation race and small cross-country (below 600cc).
• 525: modern street cars and adventure cars (600cc-900cc).
• 530: High-horsepower public upgrade sports car (1000cc +) and heavy cruise car.

Modification recommendations: You can indeed change the chain of a large-displacement car to a narrower one (also known as the “520 lightweight modification”) to reduce weight, but in my opinion, unless you get off the track, it is not necessary because it wears out faster. Also, never mix and match components. The 525 chain is absolutely not set into the 530’s dental tray.

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Why The rubber seal Shape Matters

A small rubber ring shape is different, the price difference is so much, with what?

1. “Hard Squeeze” of O-ring (Squish)
Imagine a donut. When you put the chain up, the metal chain plate will squash the “doughnut. This tight squeeze does hold back the silt, and the effect is good. However, this high pressure also brings great friction. It’s like you’re dragging a heavy tire on a run and getting tired.

2. X-ring “twist” (Twist)
There is a groove in the middle of the X-ring. When it is compressed, it will not just be squashed, but will twist. This twisting action significantly reduces the contact pressure while maintaining the seal. The result: both locking the factory-injected butter and reducing the loss of rear-wheel horsepower.

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Motorcycle Chain Maintenance

• dental disc must be changed together: Mounting the new chain on the old, ground “hawk-like” tooth plate is as outrageous as fitting new tires to a deformed wheel hub. The teeth of the old dental tray will stretch your new chain and scrap it in a few weeks.
• Cleaning agent to choose the right: If you buy an O-or X-type chain, be sure to see if there is “O-Ring Safe” written on the bottle when buying cleaning agents. Fierce drugs such as gasoline and paint thinner will directly dissolve the rubber ring and instantly turn your expensive oil seal chain into an ordinary scrap iron chain.
• Strike while the iron is hot: Just after riding, spray chain oil when the chain is still hot. The heat can help the lubricating oil to better penetrate into the gap of the X-ring or O-ring. This 1 is a hundred tries.

About the Author:David

With over 20 years turning wrenches in the shop and 100,000+ miles on my adventure bike, I’ve seen exactly what happens when riders buy the wrong parts. I don’t care about brand hype—I care about what works. I’m sharing this in the hope that it will help you choose the right gear so you don’t have to fix your bike anymore and can start riding.