How To Shorten A Motorcycle Chain

To install a motorcycle chain master link, first ensure the two chain ends are inner links and liberally grease the new master link pins and O-rings (if applicable). Insert the master link through the chain ends and press the outer side plate onto the pins using a chain press tool or pliers until fully seated. Finally, secure the connection based on your link type: for clip-style links, slide the clip on with the closed end facing the direction of chain rotation; for rivet-style links, use a chain breaker tool to mushroom (flare) the hollow pin heads to the manufacturer’s specified dimensions.

This video shows the general process of shortening a motorcycle chain:

Step 1: Prepare Both Ends Of The Chain For Lubrication

The preparatory work after the chain is truncated directly determines whether this connection can be completed. You must ensure that both ends of the chain to be connected are “inner links”. This is not only the requirement of physical structure, but also common sense-the hinge itself simulates the outer chain link, which cannot be connected to another outer chain link. As a result, both ends are outer chain links, and I have to cut another section, which is very embarrassing. Therefore, before moving the knife, be sure to count clearly to ensure that both ends are exposed as “female heads”.

Once both ends are dealt with, lubrication is a top priority. Before assembling, don’t loathe a little oil and wipe the pin of the new hinge full. If your chain is a modern common O-ring or X-ring oil seal chain, remember to smear the oil seal with oil first and correctly cover the pin shaft. The grease applied in this step is the initial “blood” of the chain. The car run, relying on it to protect those key pivot points from friction and heat.

Step 2: Installing Hinge And Pressing In Chain Plate

Both ends are ready, the oil is wiped, and now thread the joints through the ends of the chain. Here’s a little trick: wear it from the back of the chain to the front (that is, from the wheel side to the outside), so that the back operation will be much easier.

Next is to install the outer chain plate. This board is usually over-matched, and it takes a little effort to install it. Although it can be clamped in with a vise in a first aid situation, I sincerely recommend that you use a special chain press tool. Our goal is to press the chain plate to a full “seat”. How can it be considered perfect? Press to the width of this joint exactly the same as the width of the other links of the entire chain. There is a degree to grasp: too loose pressure, O-ring sealing is not tight, water and sediment into the chain will be useless; If the pressure is too tight, the chain link will be stuck, resulting in dead joints” when the chain is running .

Step 3: Locking Connection: Circlip Type Vs Riveting Type

It determines whether your chain will break under high load. How to do it depends entirely on what kind of hinge you are using:

Clip-Style Links

This is usually used in small displacement motorcycle or non oil seal chain. The most important thing here is the direction of the card spring. You must slide the circlip up so that its closed end faces the direction of the chain rotation.

Why do you want to do this? If you think about it, when the chain is turned, it will inevitably rub against the chain guide or the branches and gravel on the road. If the open end is facing forward, once something is hung, the circlip will be bounced off in an instant, followed by a catastrophic chain fall off. With the closed end forward, you can bounce obstacles away like a ramp.

Rivet-Style Links

For high horsepower motorcycles, the riveting type is the industry standard for strength. To do this, you have to have a chain riveting tool. The goal is to “flare” the hollow pin head (that is, press it like a mushroom head).

The point here is precision: you must expand the pin head to the size range specified by the manufacturer. If the expansion is not enough, the chain plate may loosen. If the expansion is too severe, the pin head will crack directly and the structural strength will return to zero. When I do this job, I must have a digital caliper at hand. Press it and measure it to ensure that the flaring diameter is within the safe tolerance range. This is the safest way.

Author: Jordan Lee

I am a seasoned motorcycle mechanic and avid rider with over a decade of track and street experience. I specialize in simplifying complex maintenance tasks—like chain adjustments and driveline upgrades—to help fellow riders wrench with confidence and stay safe on the road.