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How To Get Rid Of Rust On Motorcycle Chain
To get rid of the rust on the motorcycle chain, the first step is to “melt” the corrosion. You need to use a special chain cleaner or kerosene (this is very safe for O-ring and X-ring chains). After spraying it, be patient and let it soak for 3 to 5 minutes.
Then use a three-sided cleaning brush or stiff nylon brush, vigorously scrub the chain links, especially the side plates and rollers, to physically remove the accumulated rust. Remember, never use a wire brush. After brushing, find a clean cloth to wipe the chain thoroughly until no residue is visible and the natural color of the metal is exposed, and then make sure that the chain is 100 percent dry.
The last step should be fast, immediately spray high-quality chain oil or chain wax to seal the pores on the metal surface and prevent rust from coming back. The whole process usually takes you about 20 minutes, but trust me, for most chains that are just rusty on the surface, this can save a lot of money for new chains.
This video demonstrates how to clean a rusted motorcycle chain:
Why Must Use Kerosene Or Special Cleaning Agent?
Choosing the right solvent is a crucial first step. Never use gasoline or ordinary WD-40 (unless it is the kind that is specially marked for chains). The chemical composition of these things is too strong and will directly corrode the fragile rubber sealing rings inside the chain links.
- Kerosene: In the industry, this is basically regarded by us as the “gold standard” for cleaning O-ring and X-ring chains “. It is a light petroleum distillate. As a solvent, it can decompose rust and aging sludge excellently without causing the rubber seal to expand or crack.
- Special chain cleaner: If you prefer to use spray cans, be sure to read the label clearly when you buy it, and make sure it clearly states that it is safe for your chain type (O type or X type).
Chain Series
The brake calipers and sprockets offer excellent performance.
Calipers & Sprockets
The brake calipers and sprockets offer excellent performance.
Caliper series
Lighter weight、Corrosion resisting 、Sliding resistance
Step1: The Soak Phase
Once you spray the chain with kerosene or cleaning agent, the 3-5 minute wait time is non-negotiable. During this time, the solvent will penetrate the surface rust layer and soften the bond between the iron oxide and the healthy metal. This is actually a chemical reaction process, which can make your subsequent physical scrubbing work much easier and better.
Brushing Skills: Nylon Brush Vs. Wire Brush
To physically remove rust buildup, the tools in hand are as important as the cleaning agent.
Use the Three-Sided Grunge Brush: It is designed to clean the 3 side of the chain at the same time, which can save you most of the 1’s energy. The bristles can penetrate into the gap between the side panels and the rollers, which is usually where the rust hides.
Use a bristled nylon brush: If you don’t have a three-sided brush on hand, a standard bristled nylon brush is no problem to deal with local rust.
The use of wire brushes is absolutely forbidden: The bristles of the wire brush are much harder than the O-ring sealing ring. The brush goes down, the sealing ring will be discarded. Once the sealing ring is damaged, the grease sealed inside will be lost when leaving the factory, and this chain is basically not far from being scrapped.
Key areas:
When brushing, put all your strength on the side plate (this is where the rust is most visible) and the roller (where the tooth plate touches). Our goal is to stir up the rust that has been dissolved and get it off the metal surface.
Step2: Drying And Inspection
After brushing hard, the chain is now mixed with cleaning agent and rust mud, which must be cleaned up.
- Wipe: Wrap a clean rag around the chain and turn the rear wheel to wipe off the sludge. You may have to change the cloth surface several times until you can see the bare metal underneath instead of the dirt.
- 100% Dry: The chain must be completely dry before entering the final step. Any residual kerosene or moisture will form a diaphragm that will cause the new lubricant to hang on. If conditions permit, blow it with an air gun, or carefully ride out and slowly slide a small circle (pay attention to safety), dry the excess water, and then wipe the last 1 times.
Step3: Sealing Metals
The final stage of chain derusting is actually “prevention”. Because you have just mercilessly stripped the old oil and rust layer, the metal pores are now completely open and extremely prone to oxidation.
- Oil immediately: Don’t dawdle, do it as soon as the chain is dry. Apply high quality motorcycle chain oil or wax.
- Closed pores: lubricating oil is not only lubrication, it is more like a layer of protective film, closed the pores of the metal micro level.
- Prevent recurrence: By covering thoroughly, you block the path of moisture and oxygen to the steel, which can effectively prevent the rust from reappearing.
As long as you follow this 20-minute process, you can not only remove the rust that looks intrusive, but also extend the life of the transmission system. After all, the chain is smooth and the ride is smoother and safer.
Author ：Alex Stone
I am a passionate motorcycle enthusiast and DIY mechanic with over 14 years of experience maintaining bikes. I specialize in practical, cost-effective maintenance that keeps riders safe on the road. I believe that with the right approach—like using kerosene instead of harsh chemicals and avoiding steel brushes—you can easily restore your machine’s performance right in your own garage.