Do All Motorcycle Chains Have A Master Link

No, not all motorcycle chains have a visible master link.

When many manufacturers assemble new cars, in order to save trouble or pursue extreme stability, they directly match “seamless chain”, that is to say, the whole chain is a closed ring, and there is no connector that can be disassembled. In addition, if your car is a high-performance street car, the chain is more likely to use a “Rivet-style master link”. This kind of interface is almost the same as the ordinary chain link. The side plate and the pin are locked. For safety, the pin head will be specially expanded.

To dismantle this seamless chain or press-riveting chain, you have to use a professional chain breaker to push out the pin, or simply take an angle grinder to disassemble violently and grind the pin head flat before breaking the chain.

Understanding Endless Chains (OEM Factory Chains)

When you take one brand new motorcycle from the store, it often comes with this “seamless chain”. The core logic of manufacturers doing this is for structural strength.

Because the entire chain has no so-called “weakest link” and no manual connection points, its tensile strength is uniform at every 1. But this design is simply a hassle for post-maintenance-if you want to remove it without breaking the chain, you theoretically have to remove the entire back flat fork.

Press-Riveting Interface Vs. Cotter Pin Interface

If your chain is not seamless, it must have a “link”, but it may not look the same as you think. The mainstream on the market on two kinds:

Rivet-type interface

This stuff is most common on large displacement or high-performance street cars, and is designed to be “permanently installed”.

Appearance features: It does not have the iconic “U-shaped” circlip, the pin head is hollow, and it will be squeezed into a “mushroom head” shape with professional tools during installation.

Difficulty: Really hard to find. Because it deliberately imitates the appearance of the original chain link, you have to hold your breath and stare at it, looking for the kind of joint with a small depression on the head of the pin, or the logo on the side plate is not the same as that on the side, which is usually the target we are looking.

Safety: Big-horsepower cars must use this. It will not fly off inexplicably due to high-frequency vibration or excessive force like a circlip.

Cotter pin/circlip type interface

This is more common in small-displacement cars, off-road vehicles or some cheap modified chains.

Appearance features: very conspicuous, the side plate is covered with a metal circlip.

Maintenance: Disassembly is very convenient. However, I generally do not recommend using this kind of car with high horsepower. The risk is too high. In case that small clip breaks down, the whole chain may fall off and break the gearbox shell directly.

Why Can’t You Find That Interface?

If you can’t find the connector after more than ten turns of the rear wheel, you can’t basically run out of these two pits:

• You are using the original seamless chain: don’t look for it, really not.
• It’s a press-riveting interface: it’s too well hidden to blend into the background.

I’ll teach you a local method: spray the chain thoroughly with carburetor cleaner or degreaser. Look carefully at the head of the pin in the bright place to see if there is a small dot or indentation in the middle of the pin head of any 1 section, which is mostly the riveting point.

When Disassembling The Guy You Need What

Now the chain is very strong for safety, and the screwdriver or pliers in the ordinary home are not enough to see.

• Professional chain cutting device: this is just needed. It relies on hardened steel needles to force out the riveted pins.
• Angle grinder: If you plan to change the new chain, or the pin pressure is too tight, the most efficient way is to directly use the angle grinder to grind the pin head flat. After smoothing, the chain cutting machine will work much easier.

Tips: when using angle grinder, keep your hands steady and never cut to the back flat fork or tooth plate. If a gap is made in the frame, it is not as simple as repairing the chain, and the potential safety hazard is great.

Author：Mark Sterling

Hi, I’m a veteran motorcycle mechanic and enthusiast with over 11 years of experience in high-performance bike maintenance. Throughout my career, I’ve assisted countless riders in navigating the technicalities of drivetrain systems. I’m passionate about demystifying complex components—like the elusive rivet-style master link—to help fellow riders perform safe, professional-grade maintenance.