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How long does a motorcycle chain last
1: Chain life and type, you have to find out!
Life expectancy is a good thing to listen to, don’t take it too seriously.
Ordinary chain (non-O/X ring): This kind of chain has simple structure, no seal and fast lubrication loss. Experience tells me that it’s about 5,000 to 10,000 miles. This stuff is cheap, but the time and money you spend on cleaning and lubricating later absolutely makes you feel unworthy.
O-ring chain: With the O-ring seal, the lubricant can stay inside and the dirt can’t get in. Life span, running 15,000 to 20,000 miles is a regular operation.
X-ring chain: This is an upgraded version of the O-ring. The X-ring seal has less friction and higher efficiency. So, 20,000 to 30,000 miles, or even further, is possible. This buddy is durable, don’t have to say.
Why are O/X-ring chains more popular?
Very simple, worry! Although the initial investment is a little higher, think about it, how many times have you saved the trouble of cleaning and lubricating? How many times have you saved the money of changing chains? Time is money, and how to calculate this account is cost-effective. It keeps the grease locked so that dust and water are not allowed to come in and make trouble. Wear is naturally slow, life will go up.
To put it bluntly, this stuff is to let you worry less and ride more. Who doesn’t want to have fewer moths in his car?
2: Chain “life” of several crimes!
How long the chain can last, most of the time it is not the chain’s own problem, but how you treat it!
Your Golden Right Hand:
For those who start floor oil and frequently accelerate and brake, your chains are suffering from old sins. Every violent operation, the chain has to bear a huge impact and pull, between the roller and the sprocket that is called a “head-to-head”, wear can not fast? If you ride gently, steady acceleration, pre-judgment, the chain will use a longer life to “repay” you. People will get tired of long-term high-intensity work, and so will the chain.
Road conditions and environment, the chain is also picky:
Running on dusty, muddy roads every day? Or those slippery roads sprinkled with salt in winter? Then your chain life must be folded in half. Dust and sand are like sandpaper, polishing your chain all the time; moisture and salt are even more killers of corroding the chain. There is no way, the environment is bad, you have to pay more attention to maintenance, otherwise you have to wait for a new one in advance.
Maintenance: the most important thing, no one!
I dare say, a lot of chain is not riding bad, is living “lazy dead!
Not clean not lubricated: this is the number one killer! The chain is dirty, and it is full of mud and sand. If you don’t clean it and lubricate it, the dirty things will wear the rollers and chain pins a little bit. 1 a long time, the chain “becomes longer”, in fact, it is worn out.
Improper tightness of the chain: too tight, the transmission resistance is large, the chain sprocket wears quickly, and the gearbox bearing is not good. It’s too loose, and the feeling of frustration is obvious when riding. Maybe it will take off the chain and wear unevenly. Therefore, be sure to adjust the tightness according to the manufacturer’s manual. This is the basic skill!
Change the sprocket together, don’t be stingy: chain and sprocket, they are “couples in need”, change together if you want to change. The chain is worn out, and the sprocket must be worn out. If you only change the chain but not the sprocket, the new chain will soon be worn out by the old sprocket; the reverse is also true. Therefore, when checking the chain, by the way, see if the sprocket teeth have become sharp and have hook-like wear. Don’t save that little money and end up spending big.
3: How do you know if your chain is going to “die”?
You have to understand these signals and checks!
Buddy, don’t wait until the chain is completely broken before you think of it. At that time, it may not be a simple matter of changing the chain. Some doorways, you have to know in advance.
By the eyes:
The chain links are stiff, rusty, and the O-ring is broken/gone: this is the most direct. If you squat down and look at the chain, are there some places that have been “slabs” and are hard to rotate? Most of them are not oily or rusty. Look at those O-rings (or X-rings) again. If they are cracked, missing, or directly lost, the lubricating oil in the chain will not be able to hold it, and the wear will definitely accelerate. Rust is even more taboo, which shows that you don’t cherish it at all!
There is a “golden chain” in the chain: this is not that the chain has become valuable, but that it is worn too much. The metal friction between the chain links has polished the surface and looks like “glittering. This situation shows that the chain has been pulled out of reach and the gaps between the various parts are ridiculously large.
Sprocket tooth wear (sharp teeth, hook teeth): chain and sprocket, they are a pair, so when changing the chain, I usually suggest you change the sprocket together, which is the reason. Look carefully at the teeth of the sprocket. If they become sharp and thin, or even bend into a hawk, they must be seriously worn. The worn-out sprocket will quickly bring your new chain into the ditch, which will do more harm than good.
Tightness measurement:
This stuff can’t be done by feeling. You can do whatever the manual says.
How to measure it: Generally speaking, move the chain up and down in the middle by hand to see how high it can swing. For specific data, you have to go through the maintenance manual of your car. Don’t be too tight, don’t be too loose, too tight will increase wear and tear, and it will also increase the burden on the car. If it is too loose, the chain will be detached, and if it is heavy, it will hit the rocker arm, and it will hurt.
The chain is too loose to adjust: if you find that the chain is too loose, and the chain adjuster is almost screwed to the end, or has already been screwed to the end, and still does not reach the standard tightness, then you can basically sentence it to “death.
Tensile check:
This trick is a good way to judge how much your chain has stretched.
Can the rear wheel chain be pulled up from the sprocket: put the rear wheel frame up and put in neutral gear. Then use your hand to pull the chain outward in the rear half of the rear sprocket. If you can easily pull the chain from the sprocket, and even see a complete sprocket tooth, or more, it means that the chain has been severely stretched. Normally, it should be honestly attached to the sprocket.
When cycling, the chain “jumps teeth”: when riding, if you feel that the chain sometimes “catches” or has the feeling of jumping over the sprocket teeth, it is also a signal of excessive chain stretching. Especially when you suddenly accelerate or brake, this feeling will be more obvious.
Listen to the sound:
Your ears are not a decoration.
There is a strange noise in the chain when riding a bicycle: if there is some abnormal noise from the chain when you ride a bicycle, such as a continuous click, a harsh squeak, or a low hum, it is nine times out of ten that there is something wrong with the chain. The click may be that the chain link is stuck, the squeaking may be dry grinding without oil, buzzing, it may be that the chain is not properly matched with the sprocket or the chain is seriously worn. All these sounds are “asking for help” with you.
4: Want to make the chain live long?
That’s right!
As 1 old guy who has been riding motorcycles for decades, the chain I have seen is really “strange”. There are those who “grow old and grow strong” and are still in high spirits after running 50,000 miles, and those who “die young” and are scrapped after 10,000 miles. To put it bluntly, how long the chain can last depends on how you serve it. Come on, buddy, I’ll teach you a few hands to ensure that your chain can “live a long life”.
Clean, this is the first step!
Don’t talk to me about “out of sight and out of mind”. If the chain is dirty, I have to wash it! Sand, dust and these gadgets are the number one “killer” of the chain “.
Guys have to get everything ready: special cleaner and chain brush, which are standard. Don’t think about fooling around with gasoline and diesel. It will hurt the O-ring. When the time comes, the chain will be scrapped in advance. Don’t cry.
How to wash? Look here:
First, take a brush to pull off the mud and old oil on the surface.
Spray the detergent and let it “rest” for a few minutes to dissolve the stubborn molecules.
Then give me a brush to brush carefully, especially in the chain link seam, don’t let go of a corner.
Rinse the water and don’t leave the “corpse” of the detergent “.
Finally, dry off! Or blow dry with an air gun! Remember, it must be dry! Otherwise it will rust. Don’t blame me for not saying it.
After washing, you have to moisten it. Don’t be lazy!
After cleaning, lubrication has to keep up. This lubricating oil is not just a bottle of engine oil. It is a lot of knowledge.
How to choose lubricant?
Dry: It is suitable for places where you are dry and have no dust. The advantage is that it is not very sticky.
Moisture: rainy days, or wet environment, choose it right. Waterproof is good, but it is really easy to “absorb dust”.
Wax: somewhere in the middle, it’s clean and lubricated. Look what way you run.
How often? My experience with old arms and legs is 500 to 1000 miles. If you have just been caught in the rain or have just washed the chain, you must make it up immediately.
Lubrication tips:
Rack up the car for me, the rear wheels have to be able to spin.
In first gear (be careful, don’t hurt yourself), or turn the wheel manually, and spray lubricant on the inside of the chain, that is, the side in contact with the sprocket. Remember, centrifugal force will help you throw the oil in.
Don’t rush away after spraying, let it “dry” for 15-20 minutes, and when the oil seeps in, the solvent will fly. Otherwise, 1 ass oil idea, don’t blame me for not reminding you.
The chain is tight and sloppy!
If the chain is too loose or too tight, it is a “fatal” thing.
Too tight? Chains, sprockets and gearbox bearings all suffer and wear out quickly. The ride also feels “awkward”.
Too loose? The chain is easy to fall out, wobbly to ride, and easy to impact.
So, take out the manual and write as much as you like! There is usually a small sticker on the rear rocker arm. Take a ruler to measure it and keep it within the specified range. Don’t mess around!
Chain sprocket? Must be a set of change!
I have to hit the blackboard for you on this, it’s a “dead rule”! There are always people who want to save the money and only change the chain instead of the sprocket, or vice versa. Big mistake!
If you think about it, the tooth shape of the old sprocket is flawless with the old chain. Now you change it into a new chain. The new chain and the old sprocket are “stumbling” and the new chain will soon be worn out. And vice versa. Therefore, as long as I move, I will replace the chain and the large and small sprocket. This is the most cost-effective and responsible approach! Believe me, that’s right.
5: Change the chain? Do it yourself or find someone to do it? And how to choose the chain?
Change the chain this job, say it is difficult, also really need some craftsmanship; Say it is simple, not everyone can handle it.
Do it yourself or find someone?
Do it yourself: if you have a little hobby of repairing cars, wrenches, chain tools and so on, you can do it yourself. There are a lot of online tutorials. If you are really interested, I can tell you how to do it later. You can save some labor and time, but you have to make sure you can fix it. Don’t screw the screws or don’t install them tightly, then you will “lose your wife and lose your army.
Looking for professional technicians: most of you, I still suggest you find us professional car repairers. We have all the tools and experience. We know how to align the chain and how to lock it to secure it. Generally change a set of chain sprockets, plus labor costs, about a few hundred to more than a thousand dollars, depending on what car you are in and which city you are in. Figure a worry, figure a safety, the money is worth it!
Don’t choose a chain!
Don’t think that the chain is the same, brand and quality, the gap is big.
My recommend brands: DID, RK, Regina, AFAM. These are the old brand, the market reputation has been good, quality assurance.
How to choose the right one?
Model: This must match your car, 520, 525, 530, corresponding to different widths and strengths. It must be written in the manual, don’t buy me the wrong one.
O-ring/X-ring: This chain with ring, lubricating oil sealed inside, longer life, but also save you always go to maintenance.
Strength: If you play with large displacement or ride a bike more “wild”, you ‘d better choose to strengthen the chain.