How To Rivet A Motorcycle Chain

To rivet a motorcycle chain, use a chain riveting tool to first press the side plate onto the master link until it aligns with the width of adjacent links. Then, use the tool’s flaring tip to mushroom the hollow pin heads to the manufacturer’s specified diameter—typically increasing the flare by 0.5mm–0.7mm (final width usually 5.5mm–5.8mm). Finally, verify with a digital caliper and ensure the link pivots freely without binding to guarantee a secure, factory-spec connection.

The following video demonstrates, illustrated, how to disassemble and rivet a motorcycle chain:

Necessary Tools for Riveting Chains

Before you start, let’s see if your chain kit is professional enough. A standard DIY kit usually contains these:

Chain pressing plate tool: specially used to press the side plate into position.
Flaring/riveting thimble: The key part used to flatten and enlarge the tip of the pin.
Digital display vernier caliper: it is absolutely indispensable for precision measurement.
Lithium grease: the O-ring of the joint must be oiled, otherwise it will wear out soon.

Step 1: Press in Side Plate

The first of the riveting process is to make the outer side plate achieve “interference fit”. Apply grease to the O-ring, pass the joint through both ends of the chain, and then put the outer plate on the pin. At this time, take out the chain pressing plate tool, slowly rotate the bolt, and push the side plate in.

Stop and observe the route after every few turns. You have to make sure that the overall width of the joint is exactly the same as the original packaged chain links next to it. Don’t overpress it. Once it is too pressed to death, the O-ring will be squashed, which will directly lead to the “dead link” of the chain. Then the chain is basically not far from being scrapped.

Step 2: Flaring the Pin (Riveting)

After the side plate is seated, it is time to dispose of the pin head. Replace the pressure plate attachment in the tool with a flaring thimble. Align the thimble with the hollow position in the center of the pin and slowly apply mechanical pressure to allow the metal edge to expand outward.

In order to comply with industry safety standards, your goal is to increase the pin diameter by 0.5mm to 0.7mm. For our common 520, 525 or 530 chains, the final diameter after flaring usually falls in the range of 5.5mm to 5.8mm.

Tips: Different brands of metal hardness is different, the specific flaring value is still subject to the manufacturer’s, don’t hard set of experience.

Step 3: Precision Review and Final Inspection

This last step is the watershed that distinguishes between “makeshift” and “professional.” Pick up the digital vernier caliper and measure the diameter of each riveted pin.

If the flaring is too small, the centrifugal force during high-speed driving may cause the side plate to fall off;
if it is pressed too hard (excessive riveting), the pin is prone to tiny cracks, and the structural strength of the entire chain link is destroyed.
Finally, do a “rotation test” of the feel. Use your hand to break the newly riveted joint to see if it turns as smoothly as the rest of the chain. If you feel astringent and stiff, nine times out of ten, the side plate is too tight or the O-ring is broken. Only that kind of free rotation without hindrance can ensure that your transmission system is both efficient and safe.

Author: Billy
I am a seasoned motorcycle technician and gearhead with over a decade of hands-on experience in drivetrain maintenance. Having riveted hundreds of chains on everything from high-performance track bikes to heavy-duty touring machines, I prioritize mechanical precision and rider safety above all else.