Are X Ring Chains Better: What Actually Matters

Every time I’m about to replace the drive chain on my car, a motorcycle enthusiast always struggles with a question: “Am I just going to use an X-shaped oil-sealed chain without thinking?” To be honest, this matter really cannot be easily dismissed with a single sentence “yes” or “no”. Indeed, X-shaped oil seals are very finely balanced in terms of sealing, locking grease, retaining dust and mud, and reducing operating resistance, but this is definitely not the same “as long as it is an X-ring, it will kill all O-rings in an instant”. To really compare the levels, you have to pull the same sign, the same level, the same chain markings and your actual riding scene all to the same starting line for it to make sense.

What exactly did the X-shaped oil seal do inside?

First understand what the oil seal is for. The biggest function of this small rubber ring stuck between the inner and outer chain plates is to seal the grease tightly in the joint between the pin and the sleeve, while blocking the water and mud outside.

The familiar “O-ring” has a circular cross-section as the name suggests, and produces a sealing effect purely through extrusion deformation. The so-called “X-type” is actually a general term, which means that its cross-section is multi-lipped or similar to the X shape (some manufacturers like to call it RX, QX, XW, but in fact it is inseparable from all changes).

Compared with the old-fashioned circular cross-section, this multi-lip design is very attractive: it can change the contact area, free up more space for oil storage, and the force of extrusion deformation is more reasonable. Therefore, if limited to the same testing environment of the same manufacturer, the X-type oil seal can indeed show better oil retention and wear resistance than the O-type of the same grade. But this is just a comparison in a specific situation, don’t be blindly superstitious about it “all those with X are invincible”.

Don’t be fooled, type X is not equal to “high intensity”

Many newbies have a misconception that if they change to an X-shaped chain, the chain will “be more tensile and non-stop”. Actually, they are completely different things! The shape of the oil seal is responsible for only one thing: sealing, oil retention, dust prevention, drag reduction, and slightly affecting the lateral width of the chain.

Whether a chain is resistant to manufacturing and tensile testing depends on the steel used for the pins and sleeves, the surface quenching treatment, whether the chain plate is thick enough, the level of workmanship, and the actual load-bearing capacity behind the vehicle. To put it bluntly, the original intention of the X-shaped oil seal design was not to make the chain “harder”, but to prevent the internal joints of the chain from dry grinding when running around for a long time. Even if the two chains are labeled exactly the same, if the chain plate thickness and pin length are different, their actual tensile strength performance will still be worlds apart.

What kind of person should use an X-shaped chain the most?

If you usually hate washing and oiling the chain frequently (and want to extend the maintenance cycle), or are a hardcore gamer who likes to do long-distance motorcycle tours and often have to travel through rainy days and dusty roads, then the reliably designed X-shaped oil-sealed chain can indeed save you a lot of worry.

But in the motorcycle world, commuting, leisure, off-roading, going off the track and upgrading heavy aircraft are all completely different needs. Some people want extreme durability and resistance; some people go off the track and care about how to reduce the weight to the lightest and minimize the transmission resistance. The shape of a rubber ring is not enough to determine whether the chain is suitable for your entire scenario. Although the X-shaped design is new, don’t kill the O-rings that are still in service with one stick; veterans still have its place.

If you want to avoid the pit, see if it can be installed first, then pick up the oil seal

When buying an oil seal chain, the first step is always “check your household registration”: confirm your model, year, and specific version. First, clarify the chain markings required by the original car (such as 520, 525 or 530), the number of sections, and the number of teeth on the front and rear teeth. Remember, even if it is called 520, the chain plate thickness, pin length and overall outer width of different products will be different. You must consider whether there is enough lateral space on the engine case, frame and rear flat fork. Don’t buy it and install it but rub against the case.

There is an absolute no-no here: the truncated chain links (joints) must never be mixed! Even if the chain markings are the same, it won’t work. Different brands and series have completely different pin diameters, chain plate thicknesses, and oil seal configurations. You have to do whatever is specified in the vehicle manual or manufacturer’s adaptation table.

In addition, when selecting a model, you can refer to a general correspondence of X-type chains (the following displacements are for preliminary screening only):

428HX series: mainly for displacement from 110cc to 190cc;

520HX, 525HX, 530HX: for 190cc to 300cc;

520HSX, 525HSX, 530HSX: Generally capable of handling medium and large displacements from 250cc to 900cc.

Ultimately, however, displacement is just a reference. Whether it can be used in the end requires careful verification of the vehicle model, number, number of sections, tooth disc configuration, and installation space.

Buy 30% and get 70%, and your life depends entirely on your hands

Whether you are X or O, the oil seal can only help you lock the oil inside. Remember, oil-sealed chains are definitely not “maintenance-free”! The areas where the chain rollers contact the tooth discs, the outside of the oil seal, and the exposed metal surface still require you to clean and spray the chain oil regularly.

When cleaning, a special cleaning agent that is friendly to oil seals must be used. Take advice: Never spray gasoline, brake washer fluid, or carburetor washer fluid! Don’t hold steam or a high-pressure water gun to your life, or use a stiff-bristled brush for dry brushing! These amazing operations will soak the rubber ring or force mud and sand into the oil seal every minute.

Take a closer look each time you perform maintenance to see if the oil seal has fallen off, cracked or twisted, or if the chain has leaked oil or has dead joints (where it is stuck). The outer chain oil cannot save the internal scrapped oil seal. Once damage with safety hazards is found, replace it quickly.

How to choose? Speak truthfully

If you want to be a clear person, when buying a chain, first determine the brand, original vehicle matching model, label and your riding purpose; then compare the pin length, chain plate thickness, tensile strength and wear resistance data given by the manufacturer; the last step is to get involved in the differences between the X-type and O-type in oil retention, dust prevention and resistance.

So to summarize: among products of the same conditions and level, the reliably designed X-type oil seal chain is indeed more suitable for motorcycle enthusiasts who pursue long-term lubrication, value dust protection and long life; however, no matter how good the oil seal shape is, it cannot replace the data adapted by the original manufacturer, the hard-core metal strength and daily careful maintenance. Choosing the right specifications and sizes, coupled with timely maintenance, is always much more practical than simply pursuing the letter “X” on the box.