Wann ist die Motorradkette zu ersetzen?

First, pull the chain to check for slack. At the rearmost point of the rear sprocket (3 o’clock position), pull the chain backwards. If you can obviously pull it apart and see the gap between the chain and the sprocket teeth—or even more than half of the teeth are exposed—the chain is overstretched and must be replaced. Second, check the shape of the sprocket teeth. If the teeth are worn as sharp as hooks or “shark fins”, rather than symmetrical and plump, they must be replaced. Third, look for stiff links (kinks) and damage. Slowly turn the rear wheel and observe each link. If you find that any connecting rod is stiff, does not bend smoothly, or if the o-ring of the chain is damaged or missing, these are clear signs of replacement. While the typical replacement interval is around 15,000 to 30,000 miles, this is a vague reference and should not be considered a standard. Finally, for your safety and the best performance of your motorcycle, always replace the chain and sprocket as a complete kit.

Checking The Gap By Pulling The Chain

This is the most straightforward method to assess your chain’s condition.

How to Perform the Test:

Preparation: Get the motorcycle on its main stand or a frame support, ensuring the rear wheel can rotate freely.
Locating the Checkpoint: Find the rearmost part of the rear sprocket that is almost parallel to the ground—what we call the “3 o’clock position.”
The Pull: Firmly grasp the chain at this point and pull it straight back, away from the sprocket.
Interpreting the Results:

Good Condition: A new or well-maintained chain will fit snugly against the sprocket. You’ll only be able to pull it away slightly, if at all. There will be no visible gap between the chain’s rollers and the sprocket’s teeth.
Must Be Replaced: If you can easily pull the chain away, creating a noticeable gap—almost half a tooth’s depth or more—it’s a clear sign of severe internal wear. This “stretch” means the chain can no longer mesh perfectly with the sprocket.
Why This Works:

The metal itself doesn’t elongate. Instead, the pins and bushings inside the chain wear down over time, increasing the space between them. This accumulated wear results in an overall increase in the chain’s “visual” length. This excessive slack accelerates sprocket wear, leads to inconsistent power delivery, and creates an uncomfortable ride.

Inspecting Sprocket Tooth Shape

The chain and sprockets are a matched set; wear on one inevitably affects the other.

What to Look For:

Good Condition: Healthy sprocket teeth are symmetrical with a relatively flat or softly curved top. The “valleys” between the teeth should be evenly rounded.
Must Be Replaced: Severely worn teeth become sharp, thin, and often curve in one direction, resembling a hook. This is often called “shark finning” or “wave tips.” This deformation is caused by the elongated chain pulling unevenly as it engages and disengages.
Important Note: Once your sprocket teeth look like this, simply replacing the chain is not enough. The worn, mismatched teeth will rapidly destroy a new chain. Furthermore, these hooked teeth significantly increase the risk of the chain derailing during a ride, which is extremely dangerous.

Looking For Stiff Links (Kinks) & Seal Damage

Localized faults in the chain can be just as critical as overall wear.

Kinked Links (Stuck Links):

What It Is: One or more links in the chain have lost their ability to pivot freely and are stuck in a fixed position. This is usually caused by rust, dirt, or a lack of internal lubrication.
How to Check: With the rear wheel off the ground and the bike in neutral, slowly rotate the wheel by hand. Watch each link as it moves around the sprocket. A kinked link will not straighten out smoothly and will create a noticeable “hard spot” or “kink” in the chain’s path.
The Danger: A kinked link causes the chain’s tension to be inconsistent as it rotates, leading to abnormal noise, a jerky ride, and uneven stress on the entire drive system.
Damaged Seals (O-Rings/X-Rings):

Their Function: On sealed chains (like O-ring or X-ring chains), small rubber seals are placed between the inner and outer link plates. Their job is to lock in the factory-applied grease and keep out dirt, sand, and moisture.
How to Check: Carefully inspect the seals on both sides of the chain. Look for any that are cracked, deformed, damaged, or missing entirely.
The Consequences: A single damaged seal means the lubricant for that link is gone, and contaminants can get in. This will cause that section of the chain to wear out rapidly from the inside, often leading to a “kinked link.”

Replace the Chain and Sprockets as a Set

Whether your inspection reveals a stretched chain, hooked sprockets, or both, there is only one correct solution:

Replace the front sprocket, the rear sprocket, and the chain all at the same time.

Why?

The drive system is an interconnected whole, and its components wear down together.

Putting a new chain on worn sprockets will cause the new chain to be destroyed quickly.
Putting new sprockets with an old, stretched chain will cause the new sprockets to wear out prematurely.
Replacing only one part is a false economy. It will significantly shorten the life of the new component, degrade performance, and, most importantly, create an unreliable power transmission system that poses a serious safety hazard. When it comes to your motorcycle, safety must always come first.

Autor :George

As a rider with countless miles on the odometer, I’ve learned that the most important part of any journey is getting home safely. I believe that true confidence on two wheels comes from a deep understanding of your machine, and that starts with hands-on maintenance. I’ve spent more hours in the garage than I can count, and I’ve seen how overlooking a simple component like a chain can have serious consequences. My mission is to cut through the jargon and share clear, practical advice that empowers every rider to take control of their bike’s health and safety.