How To Change A Motorcycle Chain

Replacing a motorcycle chain is a very simple process. Either use a chain breaker or a chain cutter to remove the old chain, replace both the front and rear chainrings with new ones (to ensure even wear), and then install a new O-ring or X-ring chain. The final and most skill-intensive step: press in the new quick-release skewer, use a riveting tool to expand the pin to the manufacturer’s specified dimension, then carefully adjust the chain tension and rear-wheel alignment. Once the bolt-torque specifications are met, the motorcycle is finally ready to be ridden safely on the road.

Step 1: Removing The Old Chain

The first thing to do is to break the worn-out old chain. There are several methods, but in my opinion, the most efficient ones are still the angle grinder or a dedicated chain cutter. If you have an angle grinder handy, be careful to grind down the two pin heads on one link until they are flush with the chain plates. The purpose of doing this is to grind away the “mushroom heads” that are jamming the chain plates, thereby eliminating friction. After grinding flat, use a punch to push it out, and the pin shaft will come out. If you prefer using a chain-breaking tool, align it with the rivet hole in the chain and tighten the press pin to drive the pin straight through. Once the chain breaks, just pull it off the chainring and throw it into the scrap heap.

Step 2: Front And Rear Dental Discs Must Be Changed (Replacing Front And Rear Sprockets)

When replacing the chain, be sure to replace both the front and rear chainrings at the same time. Never even consider saving a few bucks by installing a new chain on an old, worn-out crankset with deep chainrings. That’s just a waste of good parts: the new chain will quickly stretch and wear out prematurely.

Front chainring (small chainring): Remove the chain guard and loosen the countershaft nut. This spot is usually really tight. You might need a helper to hold down the rear brake and lock the crankset in place so you can apply enough force to loosen the nut. Slide the old one down and put a new one up.

Rear sprocket (big cog): You’ll have to remove the rear wheel to do this. Unscrew the old tire from the wheel hub and replace it with a new one. Remember: When tightening the nut, always follow the manufacturer’s specified torque setting. Don’t just rely on feel and tighten it haphazardly.

Step 3: Launch A New O-Ring Or X-Ring Chain (Installing The New Chain)

The chainring is in place. Now I’m starting to install the new chain. Nowadays, most chains are O-ring or X-ring types. This means there’s a rubber seal sandwiched between the inner and outer plates, which helps retain lubricant and keep out dirt and debris, significantly extending the chain’s service life compared with older-style chains.

Attach the new chain to the front chainring and run it through to the rear chainring. Bring the two ends of the chain together on the rear chainring—this turns the rear chainring into a convenient, stable work surface for attaching the master link. Make sure the new pivot pin is fully lubricated and the rubber seal is correctly seated, then insert it from the back side of the chain, pushing outward.

Step 3: Press-Fit Union And Riveting Pins (Pressing The Master Link And Flaring Rivets)

This is the most technically demanding step in the entire installation process. You need to use a chain riveting tool to press the new chain plate onto the pin. Press down gently until it fits snugly against the O-ring. Be careful not to overpress—forcing it too hard will damage the seal, turning that link into a “dead” link that won’t rotate.

After the chain plates are pressed into place, switch the tool to riveting mode. Now, we need to flare the hollow end of the pin—commonly referred to as “flaring”—to fully lock the chain plate in place. This step must strictly follow the data provided by the manufacturer. Use a digital caliper to measure the flared diameter; it must match the specifications in the manual. Based on experience, if you ream the hole too small, it can easily come loose; if you ream it too large, the pin may crack.

Step 5: Adjusting Slack And Wheel Alignment

The final step is fine-tuning. For riding safety, this step should not be taken lightly. Before fully tightening, first adjust the chain slack. Refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual; the typical vertical play ranges from 20mm to 40 mm. At the same time, keep the rear wheel aligned. The scale marks on the swingarm are just a rough guide. I prefer to measure from the swingarm pivot to the rear wheel axle, making sure the distance is exactly the same on both sides. That’s the only way to be sure the wheel is perfectly aligned. Once the tension is correct and the wheel is aligned, use a torque wrench to tighten the rear axle nut to the specified torque. Only in this way will the wheels remain stable and reliable when running at high speed under heavy load.

Auteur : Mark Reynolds

With over 13 years of experience as a certified motorcycle mechanic and track-day enthusiast, I specialize in simplifying complex maintenance tasks for home garages. I’ve changed hundreds of chains on everything from dirt bikes to superbikes, and my goal is to help you wrench on your machine with confidence and precision.