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Can You Tighten A Motorcycle Chain Without A Stand
Yes. It can be adjusted without lifting the frame or the large ladder.
The operation is very simple: put the frame on the side kick (side stand), loosen the rear axle nut to the extent that it can move, and then fine-tune the tensioning screw.
There is a technical key point here: in order to find the “tightest point” of the chain (the adjustment of the chain must be based on this point), you need to push several cars back and forth and check the chain tension one by one, instead of overhead spinning wheels like a frame. Although it is really quick to work on a frame, it is absolutely safe to operate on the side kick, which conforms to the mechanical principle, and-as long as you carefully align the rear wheels-the accuracy is the same as that I adjusted with professional equipment.
This video demonstrates how to adjust a motorcycle chain without a stand:
Why Does The “Cart Method” Work?
When the car is stopped by the side kick, the rear shock absorption will be slightly compressed due to the weight of the body. This is closer to the chain working condition when you actually ride than the big ladder in which the rear wheel is suspended and the shock absorption is fully extended. Moreover, the wheel landing and side kick form a three-point support. When you screw those rigid screws, the body is actually very stable. As long as you are willing to take some effort to push the cart and check the whole chain in place, the accuracy can be comparable to that of a repair shop.
Prepare Tools
Get the guy stuff ready before you work. The frame can be saved, but the following must be included:
- Socket or wrench set: used to loosen the rear axle nut and adjust the tension screw.
- Tape measure or ruler: you can’t see by eye, you have to measure the chain swing.
- Rag: Wipe the oil and protect your hands.
- Torque Wrench (Strongly Suggested): Finally, the rear axle must be locked according to the original torque. Don’t twist blindly by hand.
The Specific Steps To Tighten A Motorcycle Chain
Step 1: Cart To Find The “Tightest Point”
The chain elongation is uneven. If it is used for a long time, it must be tight in some places and loose in some places. If you adjust to the loosest place and ride to the tight section, the chain may break or directly dry the oil seal and bearing of the auxiliary shaft (Xiaofei).
- Put the car in neutral so that the rear wheels can roll freely.
- Keep the frame on the side kick.
- Use your fingers to touch the lower half of the chain (the middle of the front and back discs) and feel the tension.
- Push the car forward a few tens of centimeters (about 1 foot).
- Check the tension again.
- Repeat this process until the entire chain has been worked through.
- Find the segment with the smallest (tightest) amount of slaceness. I’ll put my ruler down here later.
Step 2: Loosen The Rear Axle
Park in the “tightest” position you just found:
- Find the large nut on the rear axle.
- Loosen it as long as it allows the wheels to move back and forth.
- Never remove the whole nut. As long as the loose can be adjusted, but the wheel is still clamped, will not shake around the degree is the best.
Step 3: Adjust The Tension Screw
Look at the adjustment screw at the end of the flat fork:
- Usually it is turned clockwise, pulling the wheel back and the chain is tight.
- Move small. The left side has been screwed 1/4 times, and the right side must also be screwed 1/4 times.
- While twisting, keep trying the looseness of the “tightest point” with your hands.
- The goal is to meet the standards in the owner’s manual (usually the vertical swing is between 20mm and 30mm).
Step 4: Confirm That The Rear Wheels Are Right
Because there is no automatic alignment of the frame, this step is the easiest place for beginners to overturn. If the rear wheel is crooked, the tooth disc will wear out at a frighteningly fast rate.
- Use the tick marks on the flat fork (hash marks) to ensure that the positions of the two sides are consistent.
- If the scale line is not clear (or you don’t believe it), take a tape measure to measure the distance from the center of the rear axle to the axis of the flat fork (swingarm pivot). The data on both sides must be exactly the same.
Step 5: Lock And Review
Once the tightness is appropriate and the wheels are right, lock the rear axle nut according to the specified torque.
There is a pit to note: when locking the big nut, the chain tends to be brought tighter. Therefore, after locking, be sure to push the cart forward and finally confirm whether the “tightest point” is still within the standard range.
Author: Alex Reynolds
I’m a passionate motorcycle enthusiast and experienced home mechanic with over 18 years in the saddle. I specialize in simplifying complex maintenance tasks for riders who prefer wrenching in their own driveways.