Cire pour chaîne ou lubrifiant : arrêtez de trop lubrifier la chaîne de votre moto

Spraying too much lubricant on motorcycle chains is actually a bad habit. The original dry and healthy transmission system will be abruptly turned into a “sticky vacuum cleaner” dedicated to absorbing quartz sand, which will directly grind the O-ring to pieces. Whether to use chain wax or chain oil? It all depends on your riding environment: dry chain wax can leave a layer of Teflon (PTFE) hard film, not only dust-proof but also completely say goodbye to oil, while wet chain oil, although always liquid and easy to stick to mud, is extremely resistant to construction in heavy off-road and wading environments. So, don’t take the spray can and spray it all over the whole chain. If you want to double the life of the chain and keep the rear rocker arm clean forever, the real secret lies in the “15-minute volatilization method” and the extremely exquisite oiling method described below.

Chain lubrication, really will be “excessive?

Absolutely will. Excessive lubrication will produce 1 piles of highly destructive “abrasive paste”, which will not only destroy the O-ring, but also paste your rear wheel with slippery and dangerous black mud.
Many riders have a misunderstanding, always feel that the metal plate on the outside of the chain also needs thick lubrication. In fact, modern O-ring or X-ring chains have been sealed with enough grease for a lifetime when they leave the factory. You spray things outside for only two purposes: the 1 is to maintain the elasticity of the rubber ring, and the 2 is to prevent the metal roller from rusting. Once you spray too much lubricant, the sticky liquid will suck all the asphalt ash, dirt and tiny quartz sand from the road. This stuff will immediately become a terrible “grinding paste”. As the chain runs at high speed, the sand will be stuck around the rubber ring and rub frantically, finally tearing the O-ring apart, causing all the precious factory grease inside to leak out.

Chain wax vs chain oil: The chemical truth of the hard core

The choice of wax or oil basically determines how you will serve your car every time you come back from riding.

Wet Chain Oil: Mud God of War

Wet chain oil is 1 very viscous liquid that never really dries out. The manufacturer added high-viscosity polymers to it, specially prepared for the dragsters and old Vietnamese cannons who often cross rivers or roll in mud pits. This thing is extremely waterproof and can prevent exposed metal from rusting instantly. But the price paid is: extremely gray. If you use this thing on an ordinary street car, then you have to be prepared-the rear wheels will always be full of big black spots, and you have to wash the chain frequently with degreaser to get the stuck sand out.

Chain Wax: Absolute Shield of Streetcar Party

The chain wax will form a completely dry, solid protective film composed of synthetic wax and Teflon on the metal surface. Whether it is a commuter party, a mountain runner or a track player, they basically prefer chain wax, because once it is completely dried, it will never throw oil and make your frame spotless. Dust and sand hit on the hardened wax film will directly bounce off and will not stick at all. Its only weakness is the continuous downpour or deep mud, the kind of high-intensity water pressure that will eventually wash away this dry film.

Dead hole of dry chain wax: must wait 15 minutes

Dry chain wax is actually liquid when it is just sprayed out, because it contains volatile solvents. The point is: before riding, you have to wait for the solvent to evaporate completely.
The repairman heard complaints from car friends every day that the dry wax he bought was still thrown all over the wheel hub. This is 100% wrong operation. The solvent in the wax is only used to dilute the Teflon so that it can smoothly drill into the gap between the roller and the O-ring. After spraying onto the hot chain, you have to wait at least 15 minutes for the solvent to flash-off into the air. Just after spraying the 1, twist the throttle and leave? That is equivalent to throwing the unsolidified liquid directly onto the wheel hub. The perfect way is to spray it after riding home, let it solidify slowly 1 night, and the next day you will get a bulletproof coating that will never throw oil.

I .P.O. Minimal Oiling: Ending the Oil Dumping Nightmare

Professional racing technicians are using this “inner-loop, Penetration, off-wipe” (I.P.O.) rule, which can not only give the top protection to the transmission system, but also ensure that 1 drops of oil will not be thrown away.

Step 1: Only spray inner ring (Inner-Loop Targeting)

Do not spray on the outside or directly above the chain. Support the car frame, align the nozzle with the inner ring of the chain (that is, the side facing the front sprocket), and spray directly on the seam of the O-ring. Because the centrifugal force throws the liquid out when the wheel turns. If you spray it on the inner ring, the lubricant can be “squeezed” into the rollers while riding. If you spray it on the outside, the moment the oil starts, it will be thrown into outer space.

Step 2: Hot infiltration (Penetration Phase)

Whether you use wax or oil, you must spray it when you have just finished riding the car and the chain metal is still hot. When the metal is heated and expands, the liquid will be deeply “sucked” into the gap between the side plate and the roller. After spraying, let the car stay quietly on the lifting frame for a while to ensure full penetration.

Step 3: Dry the appearance (Off-Wipe Execution)

Take a clean microfiber cloth or a thick industrial car wipe. Hold the chain tightly, turn the rear wheel, and dry the outside of the chain thoroughly. The metal plate on the outside of the chain cannot touch the sprocket at all, and they do not need to drip oil 1. A chain in perfect condition looks absolutely dry and refreshing on the outside, with a little wet shine only at the seams of the rubber O-rings.

Questions fréquentes (FAQ)

How long does the motorcycle chain need to be lubricated?
Street car rider with chain wax, about every 500 to 600 miles (about 800-1000 kilometers) to make up once. If you go off-road or ride a bike in the pouring rain, regardless of the mileage, you have to wash the chain and oil it as soon as you come back, or the steel rollers will rust for you every minute.

Can you make up new oil directly without washing the chain?
Absolutely not. Covering new oil directly on the old dirty oil is equivalent to stuffing sand and metal debris on the O-ring. Before spraying new wax or oil, the old sludge must be thoroughly washed off with kerosene or a special chain cleaner.

Why has my chain been throwing black mud?
Because you sprayed too much and didn’t wipe off the excess oil on the outside. Centrifugal force is extremely violent, and even if only a little liquid is left on the outside, it will be relentlessly thrown onto the rear rocker arm and wheels. Try the “dry appearance” step mentioned above immediately, and the medicine will get rid of the disease.

Are Teflon (PTFE)-containing dry lubricants safe for O-rings?
Very safe. Teflon dry lubricant is 100 percent chemically neutral and is completely harmless to nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR) O-and X-rings. They provide excellent friction resistance without corroding the rubber seals.

When washing the oil on the chain, do you want to put the engine in gear?
Never do such a stupid thing. When washing the chain and oiling, use your hands to turn the rear wheels. It is a horrible “broken finger meat grinder” to hold the car on the lifting frame and block the washing chain. Thousands of car friends around the world have lost their fingers forever because rags or gloves have been rolled into the rapidly rotating sprocket.