How To Replace A Motorcycle Chain

My experience when replacing the chain of a high-performance locomotive or long-distance station wagon is this: either don’t move, and if you want to replace it, do a complete drivetrain “overhaul”. This is a hard standard within the industry. You have to replace the new drive chain and the matching front and rear discs at the same time, otherwise the new chain will hang on the old discs and will quickly develop abnormal wear.

For those models with high torque, to ensure safety under extreme loads, you must use riveted knobs. At this point, don’t worry about the tool money. Get a professional chain cutting and riveting tool to accurately control the reaming diameter of the pin to 0.15 –0.4mm—— larger than the original pin. This is much more reliable than a clip-style buckle that may break at any time. Before completion, there are two other things that cannot be sloppy: first, the chain sag must be strictly aligned with the original factory parameters; second, a torque wrench must be used to lock the rear axle nuts and disc bolts to factory specifications. There is no compromise on rear wheel alignment. If the alignment is not right, the tensile strength of the chain will be reduced and the power transmission will not be smooth.

Why Do I Have To Do A Complete Drivetrain Overhaul

Many knights are prone to making a typical mistake: only changing the chain, not the tooth plate. But when dealing with a high-performance car or a long-distance bus, you have to think of the chain and the tooth plate as an inseparable whole.

If you hang a brand new X-ring chain on an already worn disc, the new links won’t mesh perfectly with the old tooth grooves, which can cause the disc teeth to quickly become “hook-like” and the chain to inexplicably stretch. Replacing the front and rear discs simultaneously is the most cost-effective approach because it ensures a perfect bite, maximizes the life of the X-ring chain, and makes the power output very linear.

Doorway Of The Option

Compared to a regular O-ring, the X-section of this seal provides four contact points instead of just two. This design locks in the specialized grease inside more effectively and reduces friction. In long-distance travel, the low operating temperature brought about by this low friction is the core guarantee for the chain not to fall off.

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Remove The Old Chain And Install The Tooth Plate

When replacing it, first use a professional chain cutting tool to push out the pin of the old shackle. After the old chain falls down:

Replace the dental trays: Disassemble the old set of front and back dental trays as well.

Die Hard Torque: This is where a calibrated torque wrench comes in handy. The disc bolts and front disc nuts must be screwed according to your car’s factory torque data, not only to prevent loosening, but also to cope with the severe vibrations during high-intensity riding.

Playing With Riveted Knots

The feel is very important when reaming the hollow head of a slip joint pin with a high-quality riveting tool. Your goal is to have a reamed diameter that is 0.15–0.4mm larger than the original pin diameter. This size is well-sized, ensuring the side panels lock without over-squeezing and causing the O-ring/X-ring to lose its elasticity. Once pressed too hard, it forms what is called a “stiff link”, which overheats and burns out after a short ride.

Accurately Adjust Chain Sag

Chain sag is directly related to the action space of the rear shock absorber. Look in your owner’s manual——Most street or rally cars are between 30-40mm in standard.

Measurement method: At the exact middle position of the front and rear tooth discs, the vertical displacement is measured by toggling the chain up and down.

Consequences of adjusting too tightly: Many people are afraid that the chain will jump and pull it very tightly, which is very dangerous. A chain that is too tight can put enormous pressure on the secondary bearings and rear hub, which could lead to catastrophic mechanical failure.

Rear Wheel Alignment And Final Locking

This last step requires extreme precision: rear wheel alignment. Even a slight skew will cause the chain to be stressed obliquely, which will seriously wear down the tensile strength of the chain and cause uneven stress on the teeth of the tooth disk.

After aligning with the scale lines on the flat fork, use a torque wrench to lock the rear axle nut to the last end. The alignment is done, every horsepower produced by the engine can be transmitted to the ground realistically, and the riding texture will be completely different, which is both safe and smooth.

Author: Mike Stevens
My philosophy is simple: if you’re going to do a job, do it to factory specifications or don’t do it at all. I’ve spent countless hours in the shop perfecting the art of the ‘perfect overhaul,’ from precise 0.15mm rivet flares to laser-accurate wheel alignments. I write these guides to help fellow riders move beyond basic DIY and achieve the mechanical precision that ensures both safety and peak performance on the open road.